![]() 26) Scott Drake Reproductions offers these OEM look control arms for classic Mustangs and other vintage Ford compacts like Falcon and Comet.Price is competitive with most aftermarket control arms and suspension parts. 25) Scott Drake Reproductions offers these OEM look control arms for classic Mustangs and other vintage Ford compacts like Falcon and Comet.Upper control arm needs to be supported for this procedure. 24) Top shock mount and bracket are installed next.By the way, this is how you properly install a cotter pin. 23) Notice what happens when a spacer is used between the castle nut and steering knuckle.Nut must be removed and spacer installed. 22) A spacer is normally provided with upper ball joint and control arm assemblies because the cotter pin hole is beyond castle nut reach.21) Ball joint stud is turned to where cotter pin installation will be straightforward.It is the upper ball joints that wear and last roughly 100,000 miles. As a rule, lower ball joints outlast control arms and bushings. Ball joint cannot be replaced as a separate part. This lower control arm is serviced as an assembly. 20) Lower control arm pivot bolt/eccentric is lubricated and arm installed.19) Lower control arm pivot bolt/eccentric is lubricated and arm installed.18) Compressed spring is installed above the arm and perch.Urethane will last longer and ride quieter. You do have a choice between rubber and urethane. 17) Spring insulators are used on top between spring and shock tower.Spring perch/mount is next using lock nuts. This is why regular chassis lubrication is crucial. Ford compact and intermediate upper control arms are metal on metal shaft and bushing. 15) New control arms from Scott Drake Reproductions are prepped for installation including 90-degree grease jerks.14) New control arms from Scott Drake Reproductions are prepped for installation including 90-degree grease jerks.Size varies depending on whether it is OEM or aftermarket replacement. Retaining nuts are on the engine compartment side of the shock tower. 13) Upper control arm is removed and disposed of.Never stand in the path of a compressed spring. The main thing to remember here is safety. Some are fine thread while others are coarse thread. 12) A spring compressor takes tension off the upper control arm, which is secured with two nuts.11) A spring compressor takes tension off the upper control arm, which is secured with two nuts.Bottom nuts are moved to free up the shock. Upper control arm should be supported to relieve spring pressure. 10) Shock absorbers are disconnected at top along with mounts and tower supports.9) Shock absorbers are disconnected at top along with mounts and tower supports.8) With lower ball joint and pivot bolt/eccentric removed, lower control arm is removed.The eccentric controls camber adjustment by moving the lower control arm in and out. 7) The pivot and eccentric are removed next, freeing up the lower control arm.Some technicians give the steering knuckle a sharp blow with a five-pound sledge, but this can distort the spindle. 6) Ball joint removal happens with a removal tool, known in the trade as a pickle fork.Strut rod stud nuts from 1968-up are double protected with locknuts and cotter pins. 5) Front disassembly begins with cotter pin removal.4) Front disassembly begins with cotter pin removal.This is a bolt-in replacement upper ball joint on a factory four-rivet arm. Some reproduction upper arms are four-rivet. Generally, aftermarket replacement upper control arms are three-rivet. In the 1970s, Ford went to a three-rivet upper ball joint. 3) Original Ford upper ball joints were riveted in place with four-rivets.This is a ’68 Ford Mustang with styled steel wheels. ![]() 2) Ball joint and control arm replace begins with wheel removal.
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